Photo credit: Google maps
This is part of a series of blog posts about a ten-day trip I recently took south of the border through the Mexican state of Sonora and then back up north (after a ferry trip across the Gulf of California) through the Baja Peninsula.
Actual travel date: December 28, 2009. Guaymas, Sonora
After three days traveling through Sonora, we reached the port city of Guaymas. Our plan was to cross the Gulf of California by boat and then continue our trip through the Baja peninsula. From what I had read, the ferry could be fickle due to weather, and reservations in advance – which we didn’t have – were highly recommended. So I wasn’t quite sure how things would turn out.
We went to the Guaymas ferry office Monday morning and were told that they didn’t know when the boat would leave that day, and to check again later.
So we went to get some breakfast near the hotel at a simple food place called either Fernanda or Cocina Economica, or some combination of the two. I ordered my usual Mexican breakfast favorite: Eggs cooked Mexican Style or Juevos a la Mexicana. The food was a little slow in its arrival, but the portions were generous and exquisitely cooked (at $18 for four, including drinks, it lived up to its name of being economical). I personally rank this the Best Breakfast during the entire road trip.
Around noon we called the ferry ofice. We were told that there would be no departure this day – and to call at 9 a.m. the next day, Tuesday.
Now that we knew we had the day and evening free, we drove a few minutes away to San Carlos in search of the tourist beach areas of Algodones (a portion of which was the backdrop for the Catch 22 movie filmed here in the ’70s).
We found that many of the most obvious beach spots were inaccessible because they involved entering the front driveways of beachside hotels or condos. The beach area turned out to be chilly on this particular day, so we drove around some more and a condominium security guard guided us to a beach access point where the wind wasn’t as strong.
For a good two hours we walked around this quiet bay and scrambled on nearby rocks in search of crabs, mollusks and other small sealife in tidepools.
Afterwards, we explored more of San Carlos while looking for an affordable beachside hotel. We visited a few, but a lack of inviting pools and the ever-present wind chill sent us scurrying back to our original place in Guaymas, the Armida. Along the way, we swung by a seaside hotel called the Hotel Playa de Cortes that reminded me of the older, historic section of the Rosarito Beach Hotel in Baja California.
Nestled at the end of a Guaymas road, the place was full of hand-carved wooden furniture, Spanish colonial architecture and old black-and-white photos (a more recent one had been signed by then-Arizona Governor Janet Napolitano who is now head of the Department of Homeland Security). Politics, aside, the vibe made me immediately want to sip a margarita in a lounge chair.
Back in central Guaymas, we ended up having a very un-Mexican dinner of Papa John’s Pizza. Unlike most of the Papa John’s I’ve been to north of the border, which seem to cater more to the pick-up-and-eat-elsewhere crowd – this one was set up as a restaurant. As a slight drizzle dotted the windows outside, we figured the next leg of our trip would depend a lot on whether or not the ferry left tomorrow to make the planned itinerary worthwhile. If there was no ferry, we might have to come up with a Plan B.
For a list of beaches in San Carlos, go here.
For a list of hotels in San Carlos, go here.
The seaside Hotel Playa de Cortes in Guaymas offers basic rooms ranging in price from about $65-$90, depending on the season. For more information, go here.